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Blog,  Eat,  Lima

Restaurant Review: Kjolle by Chef Pía León

Pía León may best be known as one half of the chef duo of Central Restaurant, but this year she ventured out with her own solo restaurant, Kjolle.

Less formal and more relaxed, Kjolle (pronounced koy-ay) is the casual manifestation of Central with the same focus on showcasing the native ingredients of Peru.  Kjolle produces dishes that are less elaborately composed than Central, but none the less delicious.

At just 31-years-old, Pía León has accomplished notable milestones in the world of cuisine. She received her initial training at the Cordon Bleu in Lima. After a short stint at the Ritz-Carlton in New York, she returned to Lima and worked alongside Gaston Acurio at Astrid y Gaston. At age 21, she moved to Central where she has been instrumental in managing the kitchen. This year she opened Kjolle, her first solo restaurant and received the elit Vodka Latin America’s Best Female Chef 2018 Award.

Dining at Kjolle

We each began with an aperitif made from cocao at the bar Mayo between Central and Kjolle before being led upstairs to our table.

Cacao Juice aperitif at Kjolle- Lima, Peru
Cacao Juice aperitif
Cacao and citris aperitif at Kjolle- Lima, Peru
Cacao and citris aperitif

 

Kjolle offers a tasting menu and a la carte. We opted for the tasting menu, and added an extra course from the a la carte.

  1.  Amazonian Colors- Catch of the Day- Cacao- Taperiba. This is a cold dish with delicate flavors.

Amazonian Colors- Catch of the Day- Cacao- Taperiba at Kjolle

 

2. Scallops and Seeds. Light and refreshing in flavor, almost like ice cream.

Scallops and Seeds at Kjolle

 

3. Tubers- Oca- Olluco- Potato. It’s amazing what you can do with potatoes and root vegetables.

Tubers- Oca- Olluco- Potato at Kjolle

 

We added this langoustine course from the a la carte menu. The crispy langoustines and tubers were served in a thick cream.

Langoustine course from the a la carte menu at Kjolle

 

4. Cured Duck-squid-onion-kanihua. As a meat course, it wasn’t heavy. What looks like pita pockets behind the duck is made from a grain called kanihua. It was filled with a type of cream cheese. We added the tartar to the bread pocket and ate with our hands.

Cured Duck-squid-onion-kanihua at Kjolle

 

5. Vegetal Diversity- Yacon- coffee broth- chonta- artichoke. Combination of various earthy flavors.

Vegetal Diversity- Yacon- coffee broth- chonta- artichoke

 

6. Beef & Coconut- Coconut- Cashew- Macambo- Paico. Though it was extraordinary, the richness seemed out of place with the lighter fare on the tasting menu.

Beef & Coconut- Coconut- Cashew- Macambo- Paico at Kjolle

 

7. Frozen Purple Mashwa- pitahaya- muna. Mashwa is a bitter tuber grown in Peru and Bolivia. In this dish, the chef has taken a root vegetable and made it into a dessert.

Frozen Purple Mashwa- pitahaya- muna at Kjolle

 

8. Cacao from MIL- chirimoya-amazonian honey. Bitter chocolate and sweet honey come together in this dessert.

Cacao from MIL- chirimoya-amazonian honey at Kjolle

 

If we had had more time in Lima we would have loved to dine here again and try more items on the menu.

Pía León and Virgilio Martinez are creating a dining dynasty with their new projects and restaurants around the world. Kjolle is the newest addition and is already a phenomenal restaurant. We can’t wait to see what else this dynamic duo conceive in the years to come.

 

Read: The Exotc Flavors of Central.

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