Medieval Villages and World-Class Wineries in Rioja
The Rioja wine region in Spain is renowned not only for its exceptional wines but also for its charming small villages. Occupied since the Bronze Age, the Phoenicians, Celts, and Romans have all left their marks in the vines, fortifications, and religious pilgrimages.
Though the wineries have incorporated modern technology and architecture into their wineries, many of these villages have retained their medieval architecture. Wander through the twisting streets flanked by houses dating back to the Middle Ages. Have a coffee or glass of wine in a café in the plaza. Find hidden tapas bars or a Michelin restaurant.
We weren’t able to visit every adorable town, but we did manage to visit a few with a bit of wine tasting on the side. Here is our guide to some fantastic villages and wineries in Rioja worth a detour from Haro or Logroño.
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Laguardia and Ysios Winery
Positioned on a hill with views of vineyards in every direction, the walled city of Laguardia boasts a ton of charm. Built in the late 12th century, it still retains its narrow streets and two-meter-thick stone walls.
Laguardia is small enough to see in a couple of hours. You cannot drive through Laguardia (and you can see why once you are there). Park on the eastern side of Laguardia in the parking lot near the elevator lift. The lift will rise 11 stories to the top of the hill, and a walkway will take you through Puerta San Juan, one of the entrances to LaGuardia.
The best thing to do in Laguardia is wander the streets. Stone buildings housing small bars, restaurants, and shops line the ground floor while residents live above. The town center is tiny, and the clock above has dancing Basque figures at certain times of the day.
We had tapas at two bars and tried one of the boutique wineries in town. If you go to Laguardia during the week, there isn’t much open. It’s a cute place, but we learned there wasn’t enough open to warrant a hotel night nearby.
What to See and Do in Laguardia
With only three streets running North to South and a few cross streets, you can easily see everything in Laguardia. Moving in a clockwise direction, the Estanque Celtibérico de la Barbacana museum is an archeological site built 2100 years ago during the Iron Age. This reservoir collected water from a spring under the hill for the town.
Abadia de Morata is a museum with everyday tools and toys from the past centuries. The Luis y Fermina Winery is also inside. Wander the underground corridors and see ancient wine-making tools before enjoying a glass in the courtyard cloister called El Claustro de Fausti. Learn the history of Rioja Alavesa from the Bronze Age to the 21st century at Lagum.
Iglesia Santa Maria de los Reyes sits at the north end of Laguardia. This cathedral was started in the 12th century but completed in the 15th century and displays Romanesque and Gothic styles. In the courtyard are bronze sculptures of travel shoes and luggage.
Travel Tip:
The museums and churches in Lagiardia have very short operating hours. Check their opening times if you want to visit them. We went on a Tuesday, and everything was closed.
YSIOS Winery
Known for its stunning architecture and high-quality Reserva wines Ysios is a must when visiting the Rioja Alavesa region. Tours of the vineyard and barrel room are offered, but if you’ve seen enough barrels, their wine bar is open “usually 11-4:30 pm every day” (according to their website). While the new winery building was constructed in 2001, some of the vines are over a century old.
Other wineries in Rioja nearby:
Other wineries near Laguardia include Bodegas Campillo (a Faustino winery), Bodegas y Vinedos Artadi, Bodegas Solar de Samaniego, Bodegas y Vinedos Pujanza, Bodegas Ruiz De Viñaspre S L, and Bodegas Javier San Pedro Ortega.
Elciego (Basque:Eltzciego) and Marques de Riscal Winery
Elciego is a small village with narrow cobblestone streets and traditional Basque houses. The Church of Santa María is a beautiful Gothic church that dates back to the 14th century. Visit the 17th-century Ermita de Nuestra Señora Virgen de la Plaza and the San Andres Eliza church which can be seen from the roads leading into town. The Castle of Elciego offers panoramic views of the town and the surrounding landscape.
Bodegas Marqués de Riscal
Established in 1858, Marques de Riscal is one of the pioneering wineries of the region. Easily recognized today by the gold netting on the bottle, it was the first non-French wine to win a diploma of honor at the Bordeaux Exhibition (1895). Outside of Rioja, Marques de Riscal has been a prominent leader in the creation of the D.O. Rueda known for Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc.
Another easily recognized feature of Marques de Riscal is its striking hotel architecture designed by the famous Canadian architect Frank O. Gehry. The hotel is part of the City of Wine which includes ancient cellars, a spa, and several restaurants.
In 2023, Marqués de Riscal has been named second best vineyard in the world for the third year in a row.
Other wineries in Rioja nearby:
Within the small town of Elciego, you will find Bodegas Valdelana and Bodegas Muriel (parent brand of Vina Eguia and Condes de los Andes). Outside of town, you will find Bodegas Fos, Bodega Pago de Larrea, and Bodegas Murua.
Briones and Vivanco Winery
As you drive from Logroño to Haro, Briones comes into view and epitomizes what a medieval village should be. Standing tall on a hill with the steeple of the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción jutting high into the sky, it’s simply breathtaking.
Head towards the tourism office for the best chance of a parking spot. From there, it’s a short walk into the central plaza. The day we arrived there was a small market in front of the 16th century church. There are a few eateries around the square.
We wandered down some of the narrow streets trying to find a house we saw listed on a real estate website. Miraculously, we did find it, but we also discovered ancient Roman archways and family crests on many of the houses.
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Medieval Festival in Briones
During the 3rd week in June, Briones transforms into a 14th-century medieval festival. Make a reservation at the Santa Maria Briones Hotel, a spectacular luxury hotel with a spa, wine cellar, and Michelin restaurant Allegar and experience potters, jousting, and falconry like it was hundreds of years ago.
Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture
Vivanco is another family-owned winery that has been instrumental in developing wine and tourism in Rioja. You can take a virtual tour online, but if you are in the area, we highly recommend visiting the museum or at least the wine bar. The Garden of Bacchus outside displays 220 varieties of grapes from around the world.
Travel Tip:
Your best photos of the town of Briones will be from the Vivanco parking lot.
Ollauri and Conde de los Andes
A 7-minute drive from Briones is the town of Ollauri. It’s home to one of the oldest cave systems and wineries in Rioja, Conde de los Andes. The Paternina family was making wine here since the 15th century. In 1896, Federico Paternina transformed his family’s estate into a full-fledged working winery.
In 2014, the Murua family bought the bodega and vineyards and continued the wine-making traditions of this illustrious and historic family. Valenciso, Beronia, and Bodegas Martinez Palacios are also near Ollauri.
San Vicente de la Sonsierra and Lopez de Haro
A few minutes north of Briones at the foot of the Toloño mountain range is San Vicente de la Sonsierra. This town was created as a fortress in the 10th century. San Vicente and Ábalos are the only towns in La Rioja on the left bank of the River Ebro.
You could easily spend all day here hopping from wine bar to wine bar. Casa Toni, a Bib-Gourmand Michelin restaurant, is a fantastic place to have some lunch in between wine locations.
Lopez de Haro
On the southern end of San Vincente de Sonsierra is Hacienda Lopez de Haro winery. Hacienda López de Haro works with a handful of trusted small-scale wine growers who tend to century-old vines. The microclimate of the vineyards enjoys a privileged location between the Toloño mountain range and the Ebro River of Rioja Alta. Enjoy a glass or two and soak up the views over the Ebro River and Briones.
Other wineries in Rioja nearby:
San Vicente de la Sonsierra is home to a few wineries in town such as Bodegas Sonsierra, Bodega Abel Mendoza Monge Bodegas, and Clipeo Wines. Outside of town, visit Castillo de Mendoza, Bodegas Cantador, Bodegas Hermanos Peciña, and Viñedos Sierra Cantabria.
Other Villages to Visit
Even with five days in Rioja, we did not have time to see it all. If you have extra time, visit these other fantastic villages and wineries in Rioja:
- Ezcaray is situated on the Oja River with beautiful arcaded squares and palaces and is home to the first Michelin-star restaurant in Rioja, El Portal de Echaurren (two stars).
- Samaniego– Bodegas Baigorri and Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia
- Nájera is an architectural delight. Visit the Monastery of Santa María la Real, Monastery of Santa Cruz, and the ruins of the castle-fortress of La Mota, and the convent of Santa Elena.
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Where to Stay in Rioja
The villages and wineries in Rioja are not far from either Haro or Logroño. We stayed in both cities and loved them. Logroño has a lot more going on throughout the day and night during the week than Haro. Calle Laurel and Calle San Augustin are the main tapas streets in Logrono.
In late May, neither one was crowded during the day or night. Haro really comes alive on the weekends. Use Booking.com to find the perfect hotel within walking distance of either town’s famous restaurants and wine bars.
We hope you take some time to explore these gorgeous villages and wineries in Rioja, and enjoy the wine in the best wine region in the world!
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