History, Tapas, and Wine in Logroño, Spain

Nestled in the heart of Spain’s La Rioja region, Logroño is like the Goldilocks of Spanish cities – not too big, not too small, but just right. With the perfect blend of history and charm, this gastronomic destination known for its wine and tapas bars captured our hearts, and our tastebuds. If you are looking for the perfect city to experience Spanish culture, Logroño is the place.

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We spent two days in Logroño during our five days in Rioja. While two days are enough to see the sights, you’re going to want to spend more time here and not just to visit wineries.

As you walk through the Casco Antiguo (Old Town), your steps will slow, and an inviting café or tapas bar will entice you. Food (and wine) are at the center of Spanish culture, and some invisible power will tell you to slow down and enjoy the moment.

Where to Stay in Logroño

The Old Town, also known as Casco Viejo or Casco Antiguo, is the heart of Logroño. Everything is within walking distance, such as museums, churches, the river, and even a historic winery.

We stayed just outside the Old Town of Logroño at Hotel Murrieta because we needed a place to park our massive SUV. The hotel is comfortable and contemporary and a 3-minute walk to Old Town.

If you don’t need parking, IBIZA Rooms is right in the center between the Co-Cathedral and the Paseo del Espolón park. Lots of one-bedroom apartments with kitchens are also available in the Old Town. Mercado San Blas is in the Old Town for all your food shopping needs. Check out Booking.com for hotels or apartments in Logroño’s Casco Viejo.

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What to Do in Logroño

Camino Francés of the Camino de Santiago

Logroño’s picturesque streets and historic architecture transport you back in time. The Camino Francés which starts in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France, runs right through Logroño’s Old Town. You’ll see plaques marked with shells in the street, and pilgrims with their backpacks and walking canes in the early morning and evening. Logroño is one of the designated stops for pilgrims to rest.

Co-cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda

The Co-cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda (Concatedral de Santa María de la Redonda) is an impressive church, both inside and outside. The twin bell towers and elaborate façade are worth your gaze before exploring the Baroque interior. Don’t miss the small chapel behind the illustrious altar with its beautifully painted ceiling.

Calle Portales

The street running beside the cathedral is known as Calle Portales because of the long promenade of porticos. Under the porticos, you will find many restaurants and high-end jewelry shops.

Plaza del Mercado

Calle Portales is on the southern side of Plaza Mercado with the cathedral on the eastern side. Restaurants and apartments surround the Plaza del Mercado on the other two sides. Festivals and the occasional flea market make their home here throughout the year.

Other Churches of Logrono

The Church of San Bartolomé is the oldest church in Logroño. Built in the 12^th century and 13th century, it’s a stunning example of Romanesque and Gothic architecture. The Imperial Church of Santa María de Palacio and the Church of Santiago el Real are two other churches that have been renovated many times over the centuries and display many different artistic architectural styles.

Paseo del Espolón

There are several green spaces around Logroño such as Paseo del Espolón. This large urban park has a monument surrounded by a fountain pool dedicated to General Espartero. He fought Napoleon’s armies during the French invasion and in the Peruvian War of Independence in the Americas.

A beautiful rose garden was blooming in May when we visited. Surrounding the park are more modern buildings with restaurants and shops.

Parque de la Ribera

This large park on the banks of the Ebro River is home to the bullring and the conference center.

Parque del Ebro

The largest of Logroño’s parks, the Parque del Ebro stretches along the south side of the Ebro River between 4 bridges. Bike paths, fountains, and pillars with stork nests meander throughout the woodland park. We stood on the bridge and watched people play fetch with their dogs and baby storks fuss in their nests.

Walk to a Winery- Bodegas Franco Españolas

Just over the Ebro River bridge is Bodegas Franco Españolas, another historic winery. Established in 1890, you can tour their stone cellars and taste their wines through different experiences.

Logroño Museums

Visit the Museum of La Rioja to learn the history of this ancient city from its Roman beginnings. Photography buffs would enjoy Casa de la Imagen. Other museums focus on different art styles like the AK Museum – Model and Miniature Museum and the contemporary Salos Amos Salvador.

Where to Eat in Logroño, Spain

As the capital of La Rioja, you will find a variety of food choices in Logroño. From traditional Rioja cuisine and tapas to Asian and fusion restaurants, you won’t go hungry in Logroño.

Calle Laurel

The most famous tapas street in Logroño is Calle Laurel. You’ll see small eateries with a few tables to full-service restaurants. Some of the bars are open around 1 pm, and all of them close between 11 pm-12 midnight. I don’t think you can have a bad tapa here.

Restaurant La Tavina opens earlier than many of the other tapas bars. We had a nice selection of tapas and Roda wine for lunch. Upstairs they have a wine store/ classroom area for tastings.

I had a dessert tapa at Pasión Por Ti. A thick brie cheese slice on bread with mixed berry compote. So good!

Juan Y Pinchame won the Concurso de Tapas de la Rioja with their grilled langoustine and pineapple skewer, so you know we had to get that.

We tried a few other tapas places over two nights. In late May, the streets were not crowded like they are in summer, so it was easy to get service.

Calle San Augustin

Calle San Augustin is another tapas street worth visiting in the evening. It’s not as crowded as Calle Laurel, so you can take your time and see what each bar has to offer.

Michelin Restaurants in Logroño

Logroño may be known for its tapas, but it’s also a gastronomic destination. Three restaurants have one Michelin star each; Ikaro, Ajonegro, and Kiro Sushi. Six other restaurants are recommended by Michelin in Logroño, including a tapas bar Umm No Solo Tapas. Even at the high-end restaurants, the prices were extremely reasonable.

Stop into a Wine Shop in Logroño

Less than a block from our hotel (to the left), we found a beautiful little wine shop called Viura Negra. Not only do they sell Spanish wine, but Tom found past favorites from France and Italy. We popped a bottle of Cava (Raventos i Blanc) while we looked around the store. At certain times of the month, they do offer tastings. Check their website for any events while you are visiting. https://bacoenoteca.es/

Where to Shop in Logroño

It’s not often I mention shopping. I am not a shopper because I have such a hard time finding things that fit correctly. However, The boutique clothing shop, Desmán, caught my eye, and we wandered in to have a look.

They had some unique shirts, dresses, and a Tiffany blue-colored rain jacket that I could not resist. Tom was ecstatic that I was trying things on, and the lady was seeing plenty of $$$ signs as she brought me a few more items. We left with 3 dresses, a rain jacket, a belt, a shirt, and a pair of pants.

This is why you don’t need to pack as much as you think you need. You will find the “perfect” outfit(s) on your trip.

Desmán is located on Calle Capitán Gallarza, 13, 26001 Logroño between Calle Laurel and Calle San Augustin.

Visit Wineries Near Logroño

Campo Viejo, Viña Ijalba, Bodegas Olarra, Marqués de Murrieta, and Bodegas Ontañón Tasting Room are all within a 10-minute drive of the old town of Logroño.

Bodegas Faustino, El Coto de Rioja, and Bodegas Valdemar are all in the cute little town of Oyón-Oion just 15 minutes away.

We took an Uber to the Montecillo winery 15 minutes to the west of Logroño. Established in 1870, they are the third oldest winery in Rioja. We tasted an assortment of their wines while chatting with the hostess in the Wine Bar. They offer a variety of experiences including an Escape Room challenge.

For more wineries and villages within 30 minutes of Logroño, check out our post:

Medieval Villages and World-Class Wineries in Rioja

The best way to visit wineries in Rioja is to take a tour like this one, a private tour that takes you to one of the oldest wineries, Marques de Riscal, and visits the walled city of Laguardia.

How to Get to Logroño

Logroño has a small airport (RJL) with a direct flight from Madrid. Major highways lead into Logroño from Burgos, Pamplona, Vitoria-Gasteiz, and Bilbao. RENFE and AVE trains visit Logroño daily at the train station in the southern part of the city. Check Omio.com for great prices to and from Logroño.

How to Get Around Logroño

The Casco Antiguo is easy to walk around. From one end to the other, it might take you 15 minutes. Outside of the old town, Logroño does stretch out about a 10-minute drive in each direction. Unless you are living there, most of what you will want to see and do will be in or near the old town. Grocery stores like the Mercado San Blas are in the old town as well. For anything further out like wineries or small villages, you can call an Uber.

Best Time to Visit Logroño, Spain

Logroño is a wonderful place to visit any time of the year, but weather and winery hours can affect your visit. The wineries may have limited hours between November and April, so it’s best to contact them and make a reservation.

Also during this time, the weather is cooler, and there is the possibility of rain. July and August are the high season for tourists. It can get quite crowded (see YouTube) and it’s also very hot.

The shoulder season (May, June, September, October) are the best months to visit. There are fewer people, and the weather is more temperate. We visited in late May, and loved it.

Are you visiting Logroño in September? Plan your visit around the San Mateo harvest festival.

Logroño Surprised Us

We traveled across Northern Spain for an entire month visiting several cities and small towns. Logroño surprised us. We felt at “home” in this city as soon as we arrived. It wasn’t too big or too small. It had the perfect mix of historical and modern. And it was easy to get in and out of the city to visit wineries and villages around Rioja. We will be back Logroño. You stole our hearts.