A Taste of Basque Culture: Day Trip to Hondarribia and Lunch at Alameda
A stronghold for over a century, Hondarribia still retains its fortified walls and fishing heritage. We took a day trip to Hondarribia to have lunch at the Michelin-star restaurant Alameda and instantly fell in love with this town, its landscape, and its people.
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Our Day Trip to Hondarribia
We took a 30-minute taxi ride in the morning from San Sebastian to Hondarribia. Our lunch reservation wasn’t until 1pm, but we wanted to walk around and see the town before we succumbed to a food coma later. As the taxi wound through the Casco Viejo’s (old town) ancient narrow streets, I was happy we did not drive ourselves.
We arrived at the Plaza de Armas flanked by the Parador de Hondarriba on one side and the colorful old fishing houses on the other. At 10 am on a Saturday, there were only a handful of cafes open for breakfast, mainly for the pilgrims staying in town.
The Camino del Norte route starts in Irun, just south of Hondarribia, and passes through town before hugging the coast of northern Spain and finishing in Santiago de Compostela. The pilgrims we saw were still in the giddy-just-starting phase of their journey.
Old Town of Hondarribia (Casco Viejo)
We walked up and down the deserted cobbled streets taking pictures and admiring the architectural features. The old fortress walls are still there, though many have been incorporated into the residential houses. Some still display their old coat of arms carved into the stone.
The fortress walls were built in 980 and have a unique star formation. The Santa Maria Gate and San Nicolas Gate are the two entrances into the old town of Hondarribia. In the center at the highest point was the castle of Charles V, now the Parador of Hondarribia. You will need to book a reservation for a room if you want to see the interior.
San Pedro Kalea Walking Street and Promenade
We continued to wander through other plazas and down a wide pedestrian street with more colorful houses. Tapas bars lined one side of the street and a Saturday market was on the other. Locals were shopping for vegetables while residents were hanging laundry from their balconies. The tapas bars weren’t open yet, but we knew this was a touristy area by the prices displayed outside.
Taking a right turn down a side road, we arrived at the promenade by the water. Across the Bidasoa River was France, just a short ferry ride away. Fishing boats and sailboats floated in the harbor on this calm day, and further down was a sandy beach.
Shoe Shopping and an Aperitivo in Hondarribia
We wandered back into the Old Town and found a little shoe repair place across the street from a church. I saw some sandals in the window that I liked, so I wandered in and waited my turn. The two ladies in front of me had a slew of directions and gossip for the old shoe repairman. He was very attentive and was patient with my communication skills. I bought a nice pair of summer sandals to wear on vacation.
It was still another hour before our reservation at Alameda, so we stopped in at a tapas bar for a glass of Rueda. Outside, a group of old men were drinking small beers called Caña and talking about their day. On the counter, was a large jug of house made vermouth. Tom had a glass of the vermouth and we listened to the men talk and laugh about their day.
Alameda Restaurant- Michelin One Star
Alameda restaurant was only a 5-minute walk from the old town, and overlooked the train track and the mountains behind the town. We sat on the terrace admiring the view while enjoying a 16-course tasting menu. Most of the ingredients are sourced from growers, farmers, and fishermen within the Basque region (both the Spain and French regions).
Alameda is a one-star Michelin restaurant, but the food and service were exceptional. I think they deserve at least two Michelin stars.
Every dish was expertly prepared, and the simplicity of the ingredients complemented each other and wasn’t heavy. The menu was more seafood focused than other tasting menus we have tried, much to our enjoyment. Below are some of the more delicious courses we enjoyed.
Menu at Alameda
We started with a sweet and creamy Foie gras, toffee bonbon, and savory sausage amuse bouche. Between the two, the bonbon was phenomenal.
There was a slight sweetness to the caviar and the Banka trout had just a hint of saltiness from the sea.
Next we had three small dishes: hake, sardine, and monkfish pie. If you don’t “love” sardines, you will after this one. Cooked until tender with a splash of olive oil, it had a mild flavor and practically melted in my mouth. (Only the sardine is pictured).
The Entrées
Seafood in the Basque Country is absolutely fantastic. Something as simple as this grilled oyster with a citrus vinaigrette will blow your mind.
Ttoro soup (peppery fish broth) with roasted scampi and fennel. Delicious.
Pepper stuffed with duck, foie, and piparras. This was my favorite and it’s not even seafood! The flavors were bold without being overpowering. The piparra sauce is a pickled pepper sauce that complements the savory duck and cuts through the fattiness of the foie.
Euskai txerri pork with teardrop peas (Spring is the season for peas and can be found on every tasting menu). This was very delicious and light, perfect for a spring day.
Lobster and cod. The different textures made this fun to eat, but I am a purist when it comes to lobster. Just the lobster meat with butter and I’m in heaven.
Grilled fish of the day (hake) with spring stalks. Obviously, squid ink is also used in this dish.
Grilled Pigeon with Consome. The consome was boiled down until it was extremely concentrated with the consistency of barbeque sauce. This was the “heaviest” dish we ate.
Desserts
Seasonal Spring Refreshments, green apples, and peas are the name of this dessert. The tartness from the apple and sweetness from the peas made this dish a nice palate cleanser.
Chocolate, hazelnut, and orange. Three fantastic flavors are brought together in different textures and intensities.
Also for dessert was a cheese course. The staff at Alameda brought out a cheese cart that was just heavenly. We had our choice of mostly sheep cheeses aged from a few weeks to a year.
Txiki goxuak petit fours. And last, Alameda brought us some sugary candies to end our delicious lunch. A candied fruit square, chocolate bonbon, and a candied-top creme-filled cake ball for each of us (though I ate them all).
We really enjoyed our lunch at Alameda. The wine list was excellent and reasonably priced, and the staff’s hospitality went over and beyond. If you are looking for an excellent restaurant with a tasting menu for a reasonable cost, Alameda is perfect.
How to get to Hondarribia
Hondarribia is located 30 minutes east of San Sebastian. A taxi ride away is around 45 euros. If you are flying to San Sebastian, the San Sebastian Airport (EAS) is just outside Hondarribia.
The Camino del Norte, one of the pilgrim routes to Compostela de Santiago, starts in Irun and goes through Hondarribia.
You don’t need a car in Hondarribia. It’s small and easier to get around by walking.
Where to Stay in Hondarribia
With its compact size and a short drive from San Sebastian, you could easily visit Hondarribia on a day trip. But if you prefer a more relaxed atmosphere for a day or two, we have two recommendations:
Hotel Palacio Obispo – This former palace dates back to the 14th-15th century. Enjoy views over the Bidasoa River and the onsite gastrolounge.
Parador de Hondarribia – This 10th-century building was once the castle of Charles V. This historic landmark in the center of the old town (and fort) has now been refurbished into a hotel).
Hondarribia’s blend of history, picturesque scenery, and delicious cuisine makes it an ideal destination for a day trip from San Sebastian or as a weekend getaway. Whether you’re exploring its medieval streets, relaxing by the water, or savoring local flavors, you’ll find plenty to enjoy in this quaint Basque town.
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